I used fibre optics in a 350th scale USS Missouri, a word about limitations. You can get beautiful pinpoint lights but it would take many many fibers to illuminate an area, the fibers do not throw a lot of lumens off. The ultimate effect might be for instance a candelabra in 87th scale using fiber optics to represent individual candle flames, and hidden off to the side a narrow angle orange led to spotlight the candelabra to make it actually look like it is throwing light.
Just today I ordered a bunch of leds and drivers to illuminate a 100th scale galleon model, putting the final touches on the display base and finishing up detailing the outside of the hull for it's final mounting to the base and the beginning of the interior buildup. I am still trying to learn about the leds though. I'm not sure but I think in series five leds of the exact same type can be wired to my driver without in line resistors.

 

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Chuck: What's a "driver"?

 

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http://www.ledsupply.com/wired-buckpuck.php

Those may be overkill for what I'm doing but once the leds are sealed into the lower cabins there will be no way to change them so I'm hoping the regulated power supply will maximize life expectancy. Hopefully to at least thirty years or so.

 

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That's an interesting approach actually, I had always gone with a fixed voltage system and wired resistors as needed to supply the LED's.

-Hans

 

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Guys, this is a fantastic discussion.

In my past I have some basic electronic experience (medical equipment repair during the 70s) - messing with circuits, soldiering, etc.. But I sure don't know what the heck I'm doing on some of this stuff.

I'm hoping to find something introductory that I could purchase some basic supplies to do a little experimentation before I actually try to figure out what I want to do with my conny and how to run the wiring.

For the time being I think LED stuff is what I'm interested in.

I'm guessing that the first thing to do is look over the model and decide where I want lighting and what effect I want. Then determine the number of lights and what colors. That would give me an idea of how I need to run wiring. So, I could plan the wiring without even having the supplies yet.

Then I could figure out what kind of power I'll need and could order the stuff and experiment before actually installing them. I'd have to plan the build to let me install and check out it's operation before closing up the compartment permanently. I have to admit that the possibilities suggested by some of those lenses and other fixtures looked really interesting. Wish I could take a course on this and experiment with effects first.

I'm not sure where I'm going with this, but at the moment don't even recognize the space requirement and performance result of the components I looked at on this site http://www.ledsupply.com/wired-buckpuck.php  . . . but have to say it looks interesting and possible if I can once get the space thing figured out.

Dan

 

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Dan:
From what I understand (very little), LED lighting puts out very little heat. So, spacing shouldn't be a problem. Just keep in mind that there was no electricity in the late 1700's to early 1800's, so the lighting would be "dim".

 

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Hi, Don't know if anyone is still watching this, and the summer has gone quickly. I've been messing with 3mm LEDs, and bought a bunch from http://www.theledlight.com/wired_leds.html 

Found an old DC power supply laying around, designed for charging something. I cup off the plug-in and am just using the bare wires and jumpers to clip stuff together to see how it works.

It's DC output measures 6 V DC. The site above gives all the operating parameters for each color of led. There is a tutorial site that shows a resistor calculator site, and all you have to do is plug in the information you get from the design characteristics to calculate the resistance you need.

For example if you look up the say the green 3mm LED, you can see that the short lead is the negative terminal for the LED. Then here's what you find out:

1. You already know your source voltage is 6 volts (or whatever you come up with lying around your house that's at least 4 or more volts DC)

2. You read that the regular voltage drop across the LED needs to be 2.3 volts (I'm guessing. you can find the actual number on the site).

3. The regular operating curreng is 20 mA

Then all you have to do is plug your numbers into the calculator and you get the correct resistor you need to use.

I'm just messing with this and don't really know what I'm doing, but I'm learning

 

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Dan:
Thanks. I keep an eye on this thread; So, anything you come up with is helpful. I'm a long way off from using it, but eventually I will. Thanks for the link.

 

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